History
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History of Zihuatanejo

Local legend says the Tarascans (whose emperor ruled from what is now - Michoacán and who was never subject to the Aztecs) built a royal bathing resort on Las Gatas Beach in Zihuatanejo Bay. This ruler held the title of Caltzontzin ("He who governs countless houses".)  He was probably King Tanganxoan II,  but others say that it could have been Emperor Tzitzipandacuri, an earlier monarch. Regardless of who it was, the Taraskan ruler came very often to this area.  He brought along all his wives, his helpers, and a few guards to enjoy the sea, the sand and the sun; making this The First Pre-Colombian Tourist Resort in Mexico.

A great part of the rock reef constructed by the king’s men is still in place. The reef was made to create a large pool so his many wives could safely get into the water. It is located in Las Gatas beach.

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Drawing of Zihuatanejo
from the XVI Century
That was sometime around 1400. People had been attracted to the Costa Grande much earlier than that: archaic pottery has been uncovered at a number of sites, left by artists who lived and died as long as five thousand years ago. Later, around 1000 B.C., the Olmecs (famous for their monumental Gulf coast sculptures) left their unmistakable stamp on local ceramics. After them came waves of settlers, including the barbaric Chichimecs (Drinkers of Blood), the agricultural Cuitlatecs, and an early invasion of Aztecs, perhaps wandering in search of their eventual homeland in the Valley of Mexico.

None of those peoples were a match for the armies of Tarascan emperor Hiripan, who during the late 1300s invaded the Costa Grande and established a coastal province, headquartered at Coyuca, between Zihuatanejo and present-day Acapulco.

  • The name "Tarascos" (Taraskan) comes from the fact that in order for the kings to please the conquerors, they gave their daughters in marriage and called them "Tarascues" ("son-in-law"). The word was adapted into Spanish as "Tarascos". Its was used by the soldiers to refer to the inhabitants of the Purepecha Kingdom.
     
  • The name Zihuatanejo comes from the nahuatl word Cihuatlan which means "place of women".  Probably because of the incursions of the king with all his wives, who were in the majority with respect to the few men that safeguarded them.
     
    The Spaniards usually wrote the name as Ciguatan (because that is how the word "Cihuatlan" sounded to them.)  Later they added the diminutive ending of "ejo" to refer it as a "small place" or "place without major importance".  In old Spanish books, maps and documents it is found writen as Cigua, Ciguatan and Ciguatanejo. About two hundred years ago, the name was changed to Zihuatanejo. We do not know how the change came about, it just appeared like that in documents.

Three generations later the star of the Aztec emperor Tizoc was rising over Mexico. His armies invaded the Costa Grande and pushed out the Tarascans. By 1500 the Aztecs ruled the coast from their provincial town capital at Zihuatlán, the “Place of Women”, not far from present-day Zihuatanejo.

Conquest and Colonization

Scarcely months after Hernán Cortés conquered the Aztecs, he sent an expedition to explore the “Southern Sea” and hopefully find a route to China. In November 1522 Captain Juan Alvarez Chico set sail with boats built on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec and reconnoitered the coast to the Río Básas, planting crosses on beaches, claiming the land for Spain.

An oft-told Costa Grande story says, when Chico was exploring at Zihuatanejo, he looked down on the round tranquil little bay, lined with flocks of seabirds and women washing clothes in freshwater spring. His Aztec guide told him that this place was called Zihuatlán, the “Place of Women”. When Chico described the little bay, Cortés tacked “nejo”(little)on the name, giving birth to “Zihuatanejo”, which later got shortened to the present Zihuatanejo.

During the Spaniard colonization of Mexico, in a letter from Hernán Cortez to King Carlos I of Spain, he mentions the town of Zihuatanejo and a close-by island known today as Isla Grande or Isla de Ixtapa. He remarks that the place seems to be inhabited only by women. It is a good possibility that the natives saw Cortez’ fleet heading for the bay and as they were accustomed to do, they sent all their women to the island to keep them safe and away from the eyes of foreigners while they hid in the bushes. This then may reconfirm the significance of the town's native name.

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Map dated from around 1542, it shows Zihuatanejo
with the name of "Cigua" and also Petatlan.

Cortés, encouraged by the samples of pearls and gold that Chico brought back, sent out other expeditions. A shipyard and town were established at Zacatula, at the mouth of the Río Balsas in 1523; then, in 1527, Captain Alvaro Saavedra Cerón set sail for China from Zihuatanejo Bay. Not knowing any details of the Pacific Ocean and its winds and currents, it is not surprising that (although he did arrive in the Philippines) Saavedra Cerón failed to return to Mexico. A number of additional attempts would be necessary until finally, in 1565, Father André de Urdaneta coaxed Pacific winds to give up their secret and returned, in triumph, from the Orient.

By royal decree, Acapulco became Spain's sole port of entry on the Pacific in 1561. Except for an occasional galleon (or pirate caravel) stopping for repairs of supplies, all other Pacific ports, including Zihuatanejo, slumbered for hundreds of years.

After 1575, many pirates made a stop at Zihuatanejo to use the bay as a refuge from bad weather or to trade for supplies with the town people.  The most common and profitable reason for their visit was to use it as a hiding place while waiting to attack on the Spanish Armada and the merchant galleon fleet.  The town lies along the prosperous commercial route from Mexico to the Philippines. The pirates, "Privateers", that spend some of their careers in Zihuatanejo's bay, were Sir Francis Drake and Admiral George Anson. A cannon and the anchor from one of Anson's ships that sunk in the bay are captured in pictures of Zihuatanejo dating from the 50's.


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PRIVATEER was a person who by Commission or Letter of Marque from a government was authorized to seize or destroy a merchant vessel of another nation without being considered a pirate. These types of letters were recognized by International Law at that time.

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In 1704 William Dampier arrived at Zihuatanejo and entered in his ship log the presence of more than forty houses with more than a hundred people.  He also wrote that he wanted to discourage disembarkation of his men at all cost.

Between the years of 1890 and 1910, Zihuatanejo begins to be known as a fishing village with all its inhabitants living near or very close to the shore. By 1923, Zihuatanejo became famous as an exporter of fine woods. La Madera (the wood) beach, gets its name from the loading of wood in ships at that particular point. La Ropa (the clothes) beach got its name because of a Chinese shipwreck that brought all the material to shore.

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By this time Acapulco was becoming "The Resort of Mexico", but some very adventurous tourists, looking for other nearby places, discovered picturesque Zihuatanejo. The increasing number of tourist arriving by land (it was very hard to get here, it took more than 15 hours from Acapulco) and the construction of a small airport for DC-3s (for the purpose of increasing the commercial trade and the movements of tourist by air) forced the town to begin construction of small hotels.  Before that, visitors had to stay in private homes. Zihuatanejo remained a fishing village despite the affluence of tourists.

Zihuatanejo was one of the last to wake up. The occasion was the arrival of the highway from Acapulco during the 1960s. No longer isolated, Zihuatanejo's headland-rimmed aqua bay attracted a small colony of paradise-seekers.

It was not until the late 1970’s that Zihuatanejo grew in number of hotel rooms and increased the quality of services to meet the standards required by the tourist. The look of the original fishing village remains today.

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With the discovery in recent years of many ancient ruins close to Zihuatanejo (including a big pyramid still underground) and many relics and carved stones in nearby Petatlán, scholars  speculate that this area was once a very important Indian civilization that went from the cities of Tecpan to La Unión near the coast. Because of the differences between this and other archaeology and culture sites in Mexico, it is believed that this civilization was self-ruled, self-sustained and could have been semi-independent from the others. Future investigations will probably tell us more.

For archaeological tours to vestiges of this civilization , see "Tours on your own and with operators" on the www.ixtapa-zihuatanejo.com web site.

Due to the considerable influx of tourist to this area, a need developed to build luxury, high-rise hotels. In 1968, Fonatur (Federal Bureau for Tourist Development), expropriated a large coconut tree plantation near Zihuatanejo to create a new resort.

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The government tried to develop in Zihuatanejo, but the town people refused the idea of drastically changing the look of the town and having very tall buildings blocking the view of the bay.

Zihuatanejo had grown to perhaps 5,000 souls by the late 1970s when Fonatur, decided Ixtapa was a perfect site for a world-class resort. The idea was to develop a first-class complement to the popular Zihuatanejo and make a small world-class resort for the tourists that do not like big cities or big destinations. Investors agreed, and the infrastructure-drainage, roads, and utilities-was installed. The jetport was built inseparable twin resorts of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo (combined pop.70,000) were attracting a steady stream of Mexican and foreign vacationers.

The first hotel, Aristos, in this very well planned and carefully designed resort, was built in 1971.  It was demolished in 2003 to make room for a new luxury hotel complex.

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To keep with the tradition of naming new Mexican tourist destinations in a native tongue, the nahuatl word Ixtapa was chosen. It means "the white place" in reference to the white sands in the area.

During the development stages the locals referred to is as "The New Zihuatanejo". Once it got on the map, it took about a year for the town people to decide how to call the double destination... Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo or Zihuatanejo-Ixtapa.

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